A real connoisseur’s champagne based on 2018 Pinot Noir from Grand Cru villages, this family house in Aÿ’s fourth geographically designated Pinot Noir with Bollinger’s usual mushroomy, lightly oaky, very savoury stamp. Very much a food wine. Long and thought-provoking. Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Dec 2023)