Vintages Through the Years: Bordeaux

 

2010
THE GROWING SEASON
Whilst 2010 was one of the driest years on record, it actually started at the end of May and the beginning of June with rain, which brought some coulure (the failure of grapes to develop after flowering) to the vineyards and ultimately resulted in reduced yields.

Between July and the end of August the weather was consistently warm without any excess heat but with a noticeable lack of water. It was, in fact, the driest year of the decade with near drought conditions and resulted in the most prolonged growing season on record. Temperatures remained relatively cool both during the day and the night and the grapes developed very slowly.

This also helped to maintain the aromas, especially with the Cabernet Sauvignon. When a much needed 35mm of rain fell at the beginning of September it was a relief to the thirsty vines.  By harvest time, acidities remained high giving a refreshing balance and also a good ageing potential to the wines along with the abnormally high tannin content. Jean Guillaume Prats of Château Cos d’Estournel remarked that for him it was a return to “Classic Bordeaux”, powerful yet restrained and aristocratic. He likened it to the great 2005 but with more acidity.

If the 2009 vintage had not been so great I have no doubt  that the 2010 vintage in the Medoc would be hailed as the greatest vintage for many a year. It is characterised by a great fruit intensity, solid structure and big (yet beautifully ripe) tannins.  In many ways it really is a Classic Bordeaux vintage for the true Claret drinker to immerse oneself in. Certainly the wines possess an inimitable style.

On a cautious note there is some marked variation between Châteaux, however that can be said of most vintages, and there is a danger that with the fruit being so ripe in some Merlot dominated wines, it may fall away in time. In this respect some of the 2010’s are not as well knit as those of the previous year. Maybe I am being over critical and over cautious, but that is my way. In a number of instances the Merlots are overripe and very high in alcohol. Certainly those wines that possess a higher proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon have produced some truly outstanding wines. In short this is a great Cabernet Sauvignon year.

Pomerol and St.Emilion have generally performed very well. The wines I tasted were classic and refreshingly balanced, with a delicious purity of fruit. There were however some notable exceptions in St. Emilion where a number of Grand Crus seemed overwhelmed with dryness and tannins and some worryingly high alcohol levels.

All-in all another memorable vintage. We had undoubtedly just witnessed the finest back to back vintages (2009-2010) since 1989-1990.

 

2011
After back to back vintages (2009 and 2010) that can arguably be lauded as being two of the finest on record, there was always the feeling that the 2011 vintage campaign would pass with barely a  whimper. 

The 2011 growing season was not an easy one and there was some trepidation as to what quality level could be achieved in this vintage.  Winemaking technology and massive investment in the Châteaux cellars had ensured that some excellent wines were produced which will provide fine midterm drinking. It should not be underrated.  The wines are classic, structured with a beautiful fruit elegance and offer a welcome alternative to the massive blockbusters. In terms of comparisons the wines are similar to 2001 and 2006 and a notch above 2008, so no shame there!  Robert Parker has already expressed his surprise at the quality of wines from the 2011 vintage and those Claret drinkers who like a balanced cellar will do well to pick a few wines that will surely repay handsomely in terms of enjoyment.

THE GROWING SEASON
The growing season started at a fast pace with a very dry and warm spring.  The flowering of the vines took place in good weather and all was set fair - until the summer.  By July the weather had cooled down and rain fell.  Whilst August was a little better, it was still somewhat mixed with days of high heat coupled with stormy days.  The ripening of the grapes was somewhat intermittent until September when the weather settled and warm, dry weather enabled the grapes to ripen.  The lack of continuous heat during the months of July and August has inevitably resulted in the wines not having the depth and intensity of the great vintages.  A lot of work was necessary in the vineyards and on the sorting tables to ensure that only the perfect grapes entered the wineries.  Nowadays the Châteaux produce a second and sometimes a third wine ensuring only the best fruit goes into the Grand Vin.  Along with modern technology we are in the fortunate position that even in the more difficult vintages, the resulting wines are way above the quality level produced in similar vintages of the latter part of the 20th century.

 

2014
THE GROWING SEASON
In the years to come 2014 will no doubt be classed as a good vintage in Bordeaux, and in some instances a very good one. As the wines mature and we start to enjoy them, it is unlikely that much thought will be given to what made this vintage so good. I doubt that many will appreciate how only a startling change in the weather pattern in the forty days before harvest prevented it from joining its predecessor in being one of the worst vintages in living memory.

The end result is, nevertheless, the best since 2010. After an early flowering in late March was followed by a warm and sunny April, the growing season had started well. However when the cool and wet weather arrived in May, no one could imagine what the following months would bring. The Merlot in particular suffered from both coulure and millerendage. July and August were cold and wet with lower than average temperatures and sunlight. In late July hailstorms arrived that reduced the potential yields dramatically. A programme of leaf thinning was carried out in order to expose the grapes to any available sunshine, but after an abnormally cool summer it was evidently clear by the end of August that only a radical change in fortunes could save the Bordelais from a second successive catastrophic vintage.

François Nony, owner of Château Caronne Ste Gemme, recalls saying in hope at the end of

August, “We now need forty days of sunshine to save us”. What happened next was nothing short of remarkable. Low pressure gave way to a five week period of high pressure and a classic ‘Indian summer’ arrived. Bordeaux basked in the hottest September for over fifty years.

A final leaf thinning was carried out, the grapes reduced in size and the fruit concentration increased dramatically. When all seemed lost, the weather Goods had intervened to save the vintage in quite spectacular fashion. The harvest was carried out over a long period of several weeks. The hot and sunny days were complimented by cool and windy evenings, ensuring that the grapes were clean and maintained a good freshness. The Château owners held their nerve, picking parcel by parcel only when optimum ripeness had been attained. It was nothing short of miraculous. Never in their wildest dreams did the Bordelais believe that such a good result was possible after such a dismal summer. As the grapes entered the wineries the winemakers set to work, gifted an unexpectedly high quality of fruit after a roller-coaster growing season.

THE WINES
We approached the tastings with a certain amount of sceptism, due in part to the snippets of often misleading information about the general state of the vintage that eminated from the British wine press.

The tastings, held in early April, showed what a good vintage this has been across many regions of Bordeaux. However, our arrival on late Tuesday 30th March to the same damp, dismal conditions that the Bordelaise had struggled with in the early part of the 2014 season, highlighted why this region can sometimes be described as marginal for making consistently great vintages.

In 2014, the Médoc on the Left Bank suffered less rain than the Right Bank, elevated as it is and thus catching the rain bearing clouds as they swept in from the West; the key to greatness was the position of the vineyards, drainage, grape variety and, as is often the case, sheer luck.

The best overall area was St Julien and to a lesser extent Margaux, though great wines were tasted in Pauillac and St Estèphe. François Nony of Château Caronne Ste Gemme, situated on the edge of St Julien appellation, commented that the rains in July seemed to pass around St Julien, rather than fall on it.
 

2015
THE GROWING SEASON
After a winter that was very mild but actually very wet, the soils were holding a lot of residual water as Spring approached in Bordeaux.

The season got off to a good start with a very fine and dry Spring. April was warmer than usual whilst May saw a mini heat wave which resulted in the flowering of the vine taking place under perfect conditions. All was set for a good vintage with healthy yields. How often have we said that! Fortunately this vintage was to be one of those that delivered.

The season was progressing very well with the very hot temperatures in June, reaching 41°C as we moved into July, and thickening the grape skins. The months of May, June and July had proved to be some of the hottest on record, the vines were now short of water and beginning to stress.

In August the temperatures remained warm but the rains finally arrived and a higher level of rain fell than usual. This rainfall was helpful, giving freshness to the grapes whilst also helping to reduce the potential alcohol levels. Whilst the rains did cause some concern with regards to rot, fortunately this did not happen. The veraison – the onset of ripening when the berries begin to change colour – passed off well whilst the cool nights maintained the acidity levels.

In Bordeaux the latter stages of the growing season are key. On the 11th/12^th September the late season rain that fell in the Médoc did threaten the vintage, however this was mostly in the northern Médoc, in particular St Estèphe where the rains were more pronounced. Further south in St Julien and Margaux it was much drier. Whereas 150ml fell in St Estèphe, the communes of St Julien,

Margaux and Pessac largely escaped as the rains petered out. In St Emilion and Pomerol the conditions were near perfect resulting in small berries with deep colour, great concentration and a vivid acidity. When the grapes were harvested the châteaux owners were smiling. They had just produced the finest fruit since the 2010 vintage.

THE WINES
Now that Robert Parker has withdrawn from the Bordeaux arena, handing over the reins to Neal Martin, there is a sense of a return to the more classic style of Bordeaux being produced, particularly in the Médoc. Or is that just me? It would be good if it were to be the case.

In 2015, St.Emilion had performed splendidly, with some excellent wines produced although it has to be said that some wines were very high in alcohol and a little overblown. Pomerol equally offers some superb wines and in many ways has got the better of its neighbour this vintage, with a greater degree of balance to the wines.

Over on the left bank, the Médoc had produced some wines that will rival those ‘great’ vintages that I have already mentioned although there is not the same homogeneity. The late rains in early September were problematic in the north of the Médoc with St Estèphe particularly affected. 150ml of rain fell in 48 hours, although the deluge was fairly localised and petered out as the storm moved south.

The communes of St Julien and Pauillac escaped relatively unscathed whilst Margaux fared best of all, with the little water that did fall giving some much needed freshness to the grapes. These three communes have produced some outstanding wines with Margaux in particular performing exceptionally well.

One should not overlook Pessac Léognan which has also enjoyed a very successful vintage. There is often a more even balance between Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in the wines of this commune and some super wines have been produced.

Overall this is an exceptionally good vintage, certainly the finest since 2010 and, in general, one that looks a lot more sensible in terms of En Primeur pricing.

 

2016
THE GROWING SEASON
2016 proved to be an exceptionally difficult year for winemaking in France, particularly in the northern areas with the Loire Valley, Chablis and Burgundy all suffering from extreme weather conditions. Somehow the area of Bordeaux was blessed by the Gods. Words such as ‘miraculous’ and ’crazy’ were often used by the Châteaux owners when discussing the 2016 vintage, not because of how good it was, but to emphasise how lucky they were. Many weather bullets had been dodged. Yann Laudeho, winemaker at Château Smith Haut Lafitte, described it a “catastrophe that never happened”.

The very wet winter proved to play a fundamental role in the success of this vintage. Between January and May it was particularly wet, with rainfall two to three times higher than the norm. Bud break took place in late March, but by late April and early May there were serious concerns as to how the poor weather would affect the flowering of the vine. Then a ten day period of beautiful weather allowed a very swift and homogenous flowering. Phew!

The central theme to the growing season was dryness. Remember, great vintages are made in dry years in Bordeaux, not hot ones. Light is far more important than heat. From the 20th June until September 13th there was no rain.

From late June the weather was perfect with long, warm and sunny days yet not too hot. The lack of rain during the summer period caused some concern, particularly for the younger vines that were suffering from hydric stress. Gentle stress is good for the vine, as it stops growing and the photosynthesis is focused on the ripening of the grapes. Maturation is then optimised. However, too much stress causes the vine to close down. The very wet winter had replenished the moisture in the soils, with those vineyards with a high element of clay benefiting more.

By early September it was getting serious but on the 13th September a brief storm arrived with perfect timing, refreshing the grapes. This limited rain was much needed, before a further period of fine weather allowed the grapes to continue ripening. The dry and sunny days were complemented by plummeting temperature in the evenings, sometimes as low as 3°C, which maintained the acidities at a high level.

Harvest took place in mid to late October. Some Merlot plots were showing early signs of rot and so were picked before they were phenolically ripe. Selection of the Merlot grape was very important in this respect. The Cabernet Sauvignon in particular performed spectacularly – very small berries, high in concentration with low PH readings. For this reason the wines of the Médoc are heavily dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon this vintage.

After a very testing growing season the winemakers set to work with the knowledge that the weather Gods had been on their side. All was set for something very special.

THE WINES
There is a real sense that Bordeaux is moving on from the Robert Parker inspired era of big, rich and alcoholic wines and reverting back to the more classic, traditional style of Claret. This is a subtle shift but a notable one nevertheless.

The weather conditions in 2016 had perhaps accentuated this return to ‘Classic Bordeaux’. Our tastings revealed a greater uniformity in quality as compared to its predecessor, the dry and warm summer being enjoyed by all communes in the Médoc. The real winner in 2016 was the Cabernet Sauvignon which benefitted from the long periods of warm sunshine and light with harvest not taking place until mid October. There was a high proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blends of the top Châteaux and this is always a good sign of a strong vintage.

The Médoc had produced wines that are powerful and intense with great definition. The tannin structures are quite superb and the wines were beautifully textured. This is enhanced by a fragrance and freshness that provides a streak of elegance and polish. An important characteristic of 2016 is the lower levels of alcohol which enables the red fruit characteristics to stand out, adding character to the more dominant black fruits.

Whereas in 2015 it was Margaux that stole the show, there is a strong case for Pauillac being the commune to follow in 2016. This commune has produced some outstanding wines. Those who love the aristocratic, decadent, complex and smouldering wines of this commune are in for a real treat. However, there are many great wines produced in the other major communes, St Julien in particular.

Pessac-Léognan is often overlooked, but this appellation often produces superb wines and this vintage has delivered some sensational wines – ignore it at your peril!

Over on the right bank there were concerns that the wines may be a little overblown, the dry weather causing the Merlot to suffer and rot setting in. The clay soils proved their worth as our tastings showed some outstanding wines from St Emilion, whilst Pomerol has performed particularly well. There are many wines with real substance and complexity. Alexandre Thienpont of Vieux Château Certan simply described it as “Haut Cuisine!”

“2016 is unequivocally a great vintage in Bordeaux.....we are looking at a vintage that can send tingles down the spine and back up again.” Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate

 

2017
THE GROWING SEASON
The winter of 2016/2017 was rather mild with the natural consequence being an early start to the growing season, with bud-burst taking place towards the end of March.

The advanced state of the vines, due to warm weather earlier in the year, meant that the vines were in an advanced state when a catastrophic frost hit hard on the 27th April. We received an e-mail from François Nony of Château Caronne St Gemme on Friday 28th April advising that “Last night we have had severe frosts (the worst since 1991) with 85% of the vineyard damaged.” He normally produces 23,000 cases. In 2017 he only produced 3,000! There isn’t much to go around but what there is, is rather good!

As a side note, the big difference between the frost of 1991 and the frost of 2017 was that the former had not experienced an early start to the growing season. As the vines weren’t in advance, the damage was not so severe.

Château Angludet was also very badly hit, the damage exacerbated it is believed, by the felling of trees by a neighbour that created a cool corridor of air into the vineyards. The vintage was wiped out in just a few hours. No wine was produced at Angludet in 2017. Interestingly, their near neighbour Château Kirwan, only lost a fraction of their crop. How cruel and random Mother Nature can be.

Those properties that are situated close to the Gironde estuary were spared the frost, the warmer air circulating and providing a welcome shield. Further inland the frost bit hard with the likes of Moulis and areas of Margaux hit particularly hard.

Over on the right bank, the great terroirs of Pomerol and St Emilion were largely spared, which is why, I guess, they are great terroirs. Damage by the frosts was very localised. One vineyard owner would look at his damaged vines and then glance across to his immediate neighbour who had not suffered at all.

After the frosts the weather was very dry, although the temperatures were not too high. The lack of rain was becoming a real problem with some vines beginning to stress. The much needed rain arrived in early September; however by now it was too late for the Merlot, many of which were fully ripe. They were picked ten days after the rains and many were dilute which explains the lower proportion of Merlot in many of the top Châteaux this year.

For the Cabernet Sauvignon, it was a godsend. The ripening process was still in full swing and the thirsty vines were rejuvenated. When picked later in the month, the grapes were in perfect condition.

At harvest time, there were winners and losers. Some Châteaux lost a large part, if not all, of their crop. It had been a disastrous vintage. Others were more fortunate, enjoying a near normal harvest. The grapes were in excellent condition, ripe with good acidity levels. The wines produced were

balanced and polished, with relatively low alcohol levels compared to previous years.

THE WINES
Following an exceptionally dry summer, the early September rains were very welcome, especially for the Cabernet Sauvignon. If they had not arrived it is likely that 2017 could have resembled 1975, which yielded harsh and dry tannins and wines that never seemed to come around.

There was still time for the Cabernet Sauvignon variety to ripen. However the Merlots were pretty close to picking time. With no option but to pick, the Merlots entered the wineries in a rather dilute state.

Following our tastings in early April, it was clear to see that in the Médoc, 2017 was very much a Cabernet Sauvignon vintage. The wines were well structured, expressive, polished and, dare I say, classic.

A particular characteristic of this vintage is the lower level of alcohol in the wines. 13 degrees was quite common. The wines were laden with beautifully fresh and ripe black fruits and supported by well integrated tannins.

For Merlot dominated wines, there was a greater variability. Some were excellent, some not so good with dry tannins and lacking in underbelly. However whilst there were some dry tannins, there was no trace of green, unripe flavours.

The right bank Merlots (St Emilion and Pomerol) seemed to fair a little better, particularly Pomerol which showed has plenty of ripe fruit and chocolate richness. The wines are quite enchanting. Every vintage is difficult. It is often forgotten that wine is, after all, an agricultural product, at the hands of Mother Nature and the rapidly changing climate that we now face.

Each vintage provides wines with its own individual character.

So where does 2017 sit? Well it is certainly the “King of the 7’s”. Although 1977, 1987, 1997 and 2007 are hardly the greatest competition! It is a vintage that will be enjoyed in the years to come for its individuality. It will not have the superstar status of its immediate predecessors, 2015 and 2016. It may not have the tight, defined structure of 2014, but 2017 will stand its corner when compared to the likes of 2012 and 2001. In recent months we have enjoyed several wines from the 2001 vintage, which have been stonkingly good!

Vintages like 2017 really must not be ignored.

“In banal terms, I like this vintage. I am not saying it is the best, but they were mostly a pleasure to taste and fascinating to learn about” - Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate.

 

2018
THE GROWING SEASON
The season started with rain, then cold, then more rain… then it rained, and then it rained some more. The Borderlais’ heads were down. The vineyards were so wet it rejected the liquid advances and started to flood. 125mm of rain fell in March alone - the 30 year average is 64mm. In April 87mm of rain – again, the 30 year average is 75mm. Not so bad, but compared to the 21mm of rain in 2017 Bordeaux was awash.

The flowering in May/June was settled for the small period it needed to be, then hail arrived in late May causing severe losses in Bourg, Blaye and Macau. As temperatures rose in the vineyards in June, rot was a problem, as was mildew. The mildew was, to almost all a­ffected, like a tsunami of hurt that no one could prepare for. If you farmed organically you were like a turkey seeing the first Xmas card. ‘Merde’ was a word used frequently.

This was perhaps a vintage to write o­ff, to shun, to gather in and sell off­ to négociants? Then, in between the 10th and 12th July, the sun came out!

As Charles Sichel at Château Palmer said “It was if a light switch had been turned on”. The sun came out, a blazing orange orb of welcoming warmth and respite, and stayed out. The 3 months leading up to the vintage were calm, hot and dry, with just enough rain (23-25mm) at sporadic times in August and September, to feed the vines and prevent stress. Temperatures rose, aiding the colour changes in July and August.

Of the last 45 days before vintage started in late September, 22 days were above 30°C. July 2018 was the warmest on record, after 1983 and 2006. From the wettest first half of a year ever, this became a warm, ripe vintage, close to 2003 in average temperatures and heat summation, with potential alcohols that climbed and attained over 15% in some appellations. Although an average volume overall, yields from one vineyard to another varied enormously. Some had plentiful crops, others produced very small quantities.

The harvest took place in almost ideal conditions, with no risk of rot. It stretched from around 21st August for the first of the dry whites, well into October for Sauternes and the later ripening Cabernets. The busiest period for harvesting the reds was during the second half of September and the first week of October. The continued drought had an impact on the volume, as the berries were thick-skinned and in no way diluted by any harvest rain.

However the quality was sensational and that’s what makes great wine Each and every vintage has its own story. Each has its challenges and the resulting wines have their own di­fferent personalities.

There is no doubt that in early July the Bordelais were fearing the worst and had no reason to believe that by September they would be about to produce one of the very finest Bordeaux vintages.

THE WINES
The difficult months up until July were vintage defining for some châteaux, especially those who had chosen the delicate path of biodynamics and organic farming.

The wet and humid weather created the ideal conditions for the onslaught of aggressive powdery mildew that ravaged the vineyards, particularly at the likes of châteaux Angludet and Palmer in Margaux. The region also experienced some serious hail damage in both May and July which also contributed to the reduction on yields.

However, after the 10th July, the weather could not have been better and the resulting wines were big, rich and powerful. The tannin levels are particularly high and many struggled to keep the alcohol levels in check, but on tasting this was not evident, such is the powerful fruit intensity and beautiful refreshing acidities.

Nicolas Glumineau, Directeur Général of Château Pichon Longeuville, Comtesse de Lalande told me, “John, you know, it was easy to make an ‘over everything’ wine, due to the incredible weather conditions in the summer of 2018."

So who has fared well? Certainly St Estèphe and the northern Pauillac have produced sensational wines. The clay rich soils in St Estèphe were particularly helpful. St Julien showed fantastic homogeneity, but it has to be recognised that it is the smallest of the major Médoc communes. Margaux, the largest of the communes in the Médoc, showed more variation with some very high alcohols in places, especially with the Merlot.

Over on the right bank, the winemakers are more used to the higher alcohols of the Merlot grape, and were better prepared in dealing with them. Some fantastic Pomerols have been produced and we also tasted some superb St Emilion Grand Cru. Indeed, in many, many cases, St.Emilion reached the heights of 2016, which is quite something.

2018 is a vintage that will be remembered with dismay by some châteaux but as one of the greatest by others. It is similar to 2015, yet with more acidity, providing superb balance. Bruno Borie of Château Ducru Beaucaillou sees similarities with 2010 and 2016. Very small and concentrated berries, with skin to juice ratio very low. It also has a better freshness than 2009.

As you can see, we are using great vintages to draw comparisons. “The year 2018 didn’t give Bordeaux winemakers much time to breathe due to the weather conditions, which were extraordinary at times. This new vintage will be unquestionably marked by all the energy exerted in caring for the vineyards.” – Allan Sichel

 

2019
The growing season was long, with an extended “hang time” for the grapes to achieve optimum ripeness. This has resulted in an exceptional harvest for the Cabernet Sauvignon, with the Medoc producing some truly outstanding wines. St Emilion and Pomerol have also performed well, with the Merlots ripening perfectly and producing small and intense, highly flavoured berries.

The wines we tasted were very impressive, with great power and intensity, richness, intense ripe fruits and beautiful tannin structures. These are big wines but most importantly they possess a superb balance and will age extremely well. It is a vintage that will grace any cellar, and we wholeheartedly recommend them to you.

 

2020
THE GROWING SEASON
The weather pattern in 2020 was not without its challenges, and in this respect, there were a lot of similarities with both 2018 and 2019. A mild and rainy winter, a hot and wet Spring with a precocious flowering, followed by a hot summer and warm, dry and early harvest.

The early months of 2020 saw temperatures well above average for the time of year, through until May, although this was combined with plenty of rain. Inevitably this led to an early bud-break, some two weeks earlier than normal, which actually proved to be rather fortuitous, as the subsequent early flowering ultimately led to an early harvest, with all the grapes entering the wineries in perfect condition, safe from the heavy rains that arrived in early October.

The warm and wet Spring time conditions created the perfect environment for the onset of mildew, with many properties battling to treat the vineyards as quickly as possible. Yields were reduced because of mildew with some Châteaux losing up to half of their normal volumes.

May and June saw thunderstorms, but these tended to be very localised, resulting in some areas being hit very hard whilst others remained mostly untouched.

The summer months were hot and very dry, with only a little rain in early August, leading to a lot of vine stress. Temperatures were consistently high, and though there were few real spikes, the ripening of the grapes slowed down. Properties with a high clay content, that retained the water from the rains earlier in the season, or those fortunate to have deep old vines, were better positioned to produce high quality fruit.

Harvest began on the 14^th September for the red varietals, the early ripening Merlot picked in ideal conditions, whilst the later ripening Cabernets were picked at the end of the month and before the October rains. Careful selection of the Cabernet plots was vital to ensure the grapes were fully ripe, again resulting in lower overall yields.

Each vintage throws up its own challenges, mostly weather related, although for the second year running the Bordelais were also faced with the uncertainties that COVID-19 brings. The final results delivered great reward to the immense work carried out in the vineyards throughout the growing season and 2020 takes its place as one of the notable vintages on the Bordeaux Vintage Chart.

 

THE WINES
For some 2020 is the third in a trilogy of top vintages, and that is a reasonable assessment to make. As always it is best to add a caveat. Even in good vintages, it is vital that the correct measures are taken to ensure that the selection of wines purchased reflect the very best that the vintage has produced.

This was the second year in a row when our buying team had to carry out the tasting and selections remotely. Rather than decamping to Bordeaux at the end of March and early April, to visit the Châteaux and partake in the UGC tastings, we were limited to zoom tastings and barrel samples being sent to our cellars here in Melton. I must take this opportunity to thank the negociants and Châteaux for the extremely professional manner in which they ensured that we were able to taste our way through the wines of 2020. I hope it is the last time we have to work this way and look forward to returning to Bordeaux to taste the 2021 vintage!

There is little doubt that this vintage had produced some memorable wines that stand alongside those of other illustrious years. The testing and often very localised climatic conditions has caused variation, and in this respect, it is fair to say that there is less homogeneity than both 2018 and 2019.

On the Left Bank, the wines are very much in the mould of the more traditional classic style of Bordeaux, so the Claret lover will be delighted. Tightly knit, structured with a well defined tannin structure, the wines also tend to be lower in alcohol than those from 2018 and 2019. The Cabernet Sauvignon grapes were extremely small and concentrated and needed to be handled very carefully to avoid over extraction. There is no particular stand out commune this vintage, it is very much on a Château by Château basis as to who has performed well.

On the Right Bank, St Emilion and Pomerol have performed exceptionally well, and it is fair to say that there is a clear uniformity in the wines produced, compared to the less homogenous wines of the Left Bank. Yields were healthy and the Merlot was harvested in tip top condition. Overall, the wines are rich, generous and brimming with succulent ripe fruits. They bring immediate appeal and represent their appellation extremely well.

Pessac-Leognan is often overlooked. A kind of half-way house between the aristocratic wines of the Left Bank and the voluptuous and exotic wines of the Left Bank it combines the characteristics of both and so often provides outstanding quality. 2020 is very much a year for this appellation and it would be a big mistake to overlook Chateau Olivier, for instance.

 

2021
THE GROWING SEASON
After a trilogy of excellent vintages, it was only a matter of time before Mother Nature played her hand and brought the Bordelais back down to earth, and she did so quite spectacularly in 2021!

Every challenge that winemakers learned at school contrived to hit all in the same vintage. The right decisions had to be made time and time again. So, the quality of wines produced in 2021 is testament to the fact that Bordeaux is home to some of the finest winemakers in the world.

The winter of 2020/2021 was warm so it was an early start to the vintage. Paradoxically, this did not lead to an early vintage, in fact it was a return to the more classic harvests with the grapes picked in late September and early October. A throwback twenty years to 2001, although much smaller in yields.

After a mild, cold and rainy winter bud burst arrived in the early days of April, but almost immediately the region was hit by a terrible frost on April 7^th and 8^th. These sharp falls in nightly temperatures continued with 7 nights of frost between 27^th April and 3^rd May. Whilst the temperature only fell to -1°C the vines were already opening and so the damage was severe. This was followed by hail. Those properties near to the river were spared, however inland these frosts had a devastating effect. May brought calmer weather and the flowering took place between May 28^th and June 7^th.

The early summer months were very unstable, with warm but rainy weather the perfect conditions for the onset of mildew, which rampaged through the vineyards. Organic and biodynamic producers were facing a nightmare scenario, with a daily battle to protect their crops.

July and August continued to be unstable and cool, with veraison arriving late in mid August. This is the time that the grapes start to change colour and accumulate sugars rather than acids. It wasn’t until late August and early September that the weather became more benign and an Indian summer saw temperatures and sunlight rise. This beautiful sunny weather saved the vintage but with a return of rainy weather predicted for early October the final decision was one of the most important of all. When to pick? The risk averse cut their losses and picked, fearing the worst, but after a challenging ripening period the grapes were still rather green, high in acid and lacking concentration.

However, the rains failed to materialize in any serious way, and those that held their nerve were rewarded with beautiful, healthy Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. The 2021 can be characterized for its heterogeneity, where selection is absolutely paramount, and a lot of wines that you would normally see in our En Primeur offer are conspicuous by their absence.

THE WINES
Lilian Barton spoke frankly when she said “Anyone who made bad wine in 2018, 2019 or 2020 should find another job!” 2021 was a winemaker’s vintage and particularly challenging for those Châteaux that follow organic and biodynamic principles.

Grape selection was all important with very uneven ripening. Often, even in the same bunch of grapes you would find some red riper grapes amongst more rose coloured unripe grapes.

The Merlot in particular suffered from the damaging frosts, and during the wet and sun starved summer months, found it difficult to gain phenolic ripeness. That said, on the right bank there has been some good success in both Pomerol and St Emilion, with some delicious wines produced.

The thicker skinned Cabernet Sauvignon is the real success story of 2021, better suited to resist disease in the vineyards. A number of Châteaux have included the highest proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon in their blend, so it has been interesting to see a change of style in the likes of Château Beychevelle, for instance, which is more Pauillac in character than St Julien.

As we constructed our thoughts, the picture became clear. This was the most challenging vintage since 2013. It also showed a realignment of styles, with each appellation demonstrating its individual characteristics.

The style of 2021 is more classic – cooler, fresher wines with lower alcohols coming in at 12.5 - 13% Vol, but what sets this vintage apart is the beautiful drinkability and balance of the wines. There are many examples of superb winemaking. Philippe Delfaut, the Winemaker at Château Kirwan considers Kirwan 2021 to be even better than the 2019, which as we know is considered to be an outstanding vintage. In fact, the Margaux appellation, in general, has performed exceptionally well, the gravelly soils giving excellent drainage. There have been times in the most recent vintages, where the wines of Margaux have been somewhat overblown, but in 2021 they demonstrate an admirable balance and attractive personality.

St Julien is the smallest appellation and so as one would expect there is greater uniformity, whilst Pauillac showed more variation and careful selection is required here. The same goes for Saint-Estèphe in the far North of the Medoc, with its clay dominant soils that have been so successful in the recent hot vintages, reverting to type, with some tough, austere wines.

Comparisons are always difficult, but the 2021 vintage is quite unique and difficult to compare. There are some stunning Cabernet Sauvignon based wines that are sheer delight and will give great pleasure. The wines certainly have a lot more in common with the style of wines produced in the 1990’s, particularly the 1996 vintage, and this will no doubt bring a smile to the faces of the traditional Claret drinker. There are also characteristics that are similar to both the 2001 and 2006 vintages, but the final caution must be that this is not a heterogenous vintage and careful selection is vital. There will be some wonderful surprises in 10 years’ time, but there will also be some disappointments.

 

2022

Mirror, Mirror, on the wall..

The simplistic explanation of a mirror is that it perfectly reflects what it sees. Step back and consider for a moment however, and you can see that, whilst it is a reflection of what is visible, the image is in reality reversed; hence stand in front of a mirror, raise your left hand to your nose and in the mirror it appears to be your right hand that touches your nose.

This (convoluted) explanation perfectly sums up the comparison between the 2021 and the 2022 vintages in Bordeaux.

2021 saw a tumultuous growing season combining continual struggles with climatic and vineyard problems - cooler than normal temperatures, haphazard flowering, too much rain, then Mildew followed by lack of photosynthesis etc. 2021 was a year when Cabernet Sauvignon reigned supreme, especially on free draining gravel, and the resultant wines were lower in alcohol, fresher and the tannins and colour much reduced. What saved the vintage was a period of warmth toward the end of the season, which allowed many grapes to ripen sufficiently to make classic, elegant, fresher wines.

2022, in contrast, saw unprecedented temperatures, combined with almost drought-like conditions throughout the ripening season. There was very little disease and a preference for clay-dominated soils where Merlot showed its ability to continue ripening even when temperatures at Merignac airport hit 41.9C! Two bands of hail in June affected some areas, especially in the Haut-Medoc and upper St Estèphe and in isolated cases proved disastrous. The yields were generally down, especially on the left bank, but here many Chateaux were able to offset smaller crops by reducing the amount of wine classified into 2^nd and 3^rd wines. The wines produced in 2022 are a true testament to the advances in farming over the last twenty years, along with the better understanding of climate change and the viticultural developments associated with this.

Throughout our exhaustive tastings at the UGC and Châteaux in Bordeaux during the last week in April, the dominating factors of 2022 were dark colours, high levels of extract, alcohols and tannins. Just as many Château owners started to fear that the wines of 2022 would be dense, jammy and over-blown in a style akin to the hot 2003 vintage, the wines were saved by cooler nights when the temperatures dropped considerably, allowing the grapes to cool and retain vital acidity. In addition, many vineyard owners spoke of their vines’ growing resilience to higher temperatures and lack of water in recent years; this, in partnership with the higher levels of water reserves that had been built up by an overly wet winter helped the vines maintain a thick canopy of foliage in late summer 2022, thereby protecting the grape bunches from the worst of the direct sun.

So, was 2022 a miracle, near perfect year across the whole region, resulting in a smaller quantity of powerful and balanced wines? Alas, no.

A singular dominating factor resulting from the heat and dry conditions across the ripening season of 2022 was the extraction levels. Thicker skins and smaller berries gave higher levels of colour, as well as increased level of sugars and tannins, thereby pulling some wines back from achieving sheer brilliance. Those winemakers who managed lighter extractions have made wines that will be near perfect – others have gripping tannins and increased alcohols that may, in the longer term, be unbalanced.

In summary, whilst the 2021 saw wine writers faintly cautious in both praise and scores, 2022 has already been heralded (again) as a ‘vintage of the century’ – with many wine writers and Château owners describing it as a miracle vintage. Others are a little more cautious, pointing to a minority of unbalanced wines with high extraction of tannin and alcohol levels and lack of freshness. Time, as always, will be the judge on those wines.

Overall, we rate this an excellent vintage, with wines that have richness, power, sweet dense fruit, brooding tannins and, in most cases, a balanced freshness. Where light extraction was managed and acidity maintained, great wines have been made that will cellar extremely well in the long term. 2022 has produced muscular and attractively opulent wines on both the left and right bank. On the right bank both St Emilion and Pomerol produced fabulously rich and moreish wines, particularly at Châteaux that enjoy the benefit of deep-rooted old vines. On the left bank impressive wines can be found across all the famous appellations with Pauillac, St Julien and Margaux all performing well, although it is difficult to pick out any of them as the star performer – more a case of individual Château selection.

Mirror, Mirror on the wall, who is the fairest of them all…?

Only time will tell whether 2022 proves to be a truly ‘great’ vintage!

 

 

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